When you think of an Old Fashioned, bourbon (or whiskey) usually comes to mind. But in Wisconsin, people often clarify an old-fashioned order: Do you want brandy or bourbon?
Because in Wisconsin, old fashioned brandy is the order of the day. “The Wisconsin Old Fashioned is sweet and simple,” says JC Cunningham, owner of cocktail bar PufferFish in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. “It’s a nice way to drink two ounces of brandy without it being too strong.”
It’s usually topped with citrus soda (or soda as Wisconsinites call it). You also have to say what flavor you want: sweet (7Up, Sprite, or other lemon-lime soda), squeezed (semi-sweet, semi-plain soda), or sour, usually made with a sour mix or squirt . Often, maraschino cherries or oranges are also messy. “Garnishes are usually fruit, orange halves and maraschino cherries,” says Ron Faiola, author of the series Wisconsin Supper Club.
Brandy takes center stage, usually Korbel California Brandy. Korbel is the fourth largest brandy producer in the United States, with more than 60% of its sales going to Wisconsin. Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge, Milwaukee’s oldest cocktail lounge, has been serving old-fashioned brandies, including Korbel, simple syrup, and Angostura bitters, the same way for most of its 86-year history and your choice of soda.
“There are many theories about the drink’s origins, but I like the romantic version that it was when the Cobell brothers introduced American brandy to the Midwest at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair,” Cunningham says. “The story goes that Wisconsinites fell in love with the spirit and trucked it out. Then Prohibition hit [and alcohol was made illegal]. Wisconsin has a history of smuggling and moonshine between Illinois and Canada. To make moonshine or bathtub liquor more palatable, people add fruit and sugar to the batch. Once alcohol was legalized again, plenty of brandy was discovered, but “we were used to drinking moonshine and cheap whiskey with fruit and sugar, so those elements got stuck.”
Compared to its more spiritual cousin, the Wisconsin Old Fashioned is designed for early social (aka happy) times. “[Brandy] Offering rounder, more approachable flavors that make it easier for couples to get along. “Ultimately, the Wisconsin Old Fashioned is a twist on the classic, making it a more ‘conversational’ drink that can be paired with food and fun. Compared to a 100+ proof bourbon or rye, something like an 80+ proof A mild base liquor like brandy is better for this.
The backstory of Jepsen’s Marlott has been the subject of speculation, but a new book lifts the lid on Chicago’s favorite tipple.
This meeting-friendly quality makes sense given its connection to Wisconsin Supper Club Day. Supper clubs in Wisconsin date back to roadhouses and dance halls in the 1920s, but the social club concept really had its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, Faiola said. A supper club is a one-stop shop for family or friends—where you can enjoy happy hour, order dinner, socialize, and often dance or enjoy the entertainment. “[The brandy old-fashioned was] It’s the perfect way to start your evening at the supper club – stop by the bar before taking a seat,” says Faiola.
