For the first time in his nearly 15-year career, David Koma has decided to take a break, skipping a show this season and not even attending a formal presentation. In part, you suspect it might have something to do with his new responsibilities at Blumarine: Koma comes to Paris directly from attending Milan Fashion Week with his new colleagues. However, when we walked into his Paris showroom, the designer demurred. He explains that he’s working on something big for the anniversary in February, so for now: “I want to focus on the whole range and quality and exploring the magic on the rails.”
The magic seems to work its magic on happy wholesale customers who keep Koma’s team busy. “There’s extreme tailoring, extreme decadence, extreme glam,” concluded the designer, who said the collection was inspired by bird portraits shot in the studio of Australian photographer Layly Jeffress. More specifically, he said, “I chose the hummingbird because it has this extreme, super energy. Swallowing is for the feeling of family and togetherness. Less thematically but equally striking, there is a fair amount of fire.” Chicken: The so-called stork feathers we see in fashion today often come from America’s favorite traditional celebratory main dish.
A floor-length feather-trimmed tulle veil was worn over a neon yellow balconette bra and mini skirt pants. A light blue crystal-fastened Lycra jumpsuit is paired with a tonal marabou sleeveless hoodie. This highly functional hoodie is also available in pink with long sleeves. Koma is koma, and the black portion of the night was intensely defined. One mini dress was trimmed with pink feathers at the bust. The loose fit is paired with a metal chain that hangs from the right shoulder to the breast pocket; an embroidered flower is tied at the end. More broadly, the fashion world is experiencing a moment of self-reflection about how best to express a strong, autonomous, feminine sensuality: a path David Koma has been on since he became a designer.
