The Vivienne Westwood collection has not been on the catwalk since 2019. from Shanghai).
The show began with menswear, a pinstriped suit paired with a pair of silver leather open-toe pumps. Two other masculine-looking models in black dresses followed, one holding a basketball to match their outfits. “Black, the color most suitable for summer,” reads a press release for the collection. These looks and the gender-bending look—a signature of the brand but less common in Shanghai—reminiscent of the kind of heady theatrics that made Dame Westwood a counterculture icon.
What follows is a fusion of some commercial ready-to-wear (T-shirts, denim miniskirts and jackets, knitted separates); a range of athleisure wear, including biker shorts, leggings, stylish tank tops and some wide-leg sweatshirts; and swimwear . It’s a confusing mix at times, especially one that includes a unique tunic jacket. Not every brand taking part in Shanghai Fashion Week needs to take on the challenge of re-evaluating Chinese clothing. At the very least, we should aim to put in a little more effort into doing just that—especially considering there’s already a bunch of talented local designers doing this sort of thing this week. One can’t help but wonder what the unique Westwood tailoring style would look like combined with bold clothing such as a tunic or cheongsam.
The real hit here is the fan favorite Westwoodism. From bespoke jackets and exquisite signature Dame Vivienne skirt suits to a range of corsets and the designer’s signature plaid pattern, it’s these crowd-pleasers that the brand should focus on. In terms of men’s clothing, black shirts with pleated collars and short denim jackets paired with black suspenders are the highlights.
A few sparkly little dresses and draped dresses are sure to appeal to America’s celebrity crowd. With Americans such as Taylor Swift and Malia Obama wearing the brand, New York should be next on Westwood’s travel itinerary.
