Francisco Cancino is delighted. That was evident in his new show, which opened with a scarlet top and pants suit, followed by another look in Mexican pink, and a third in orange. The festive tone and joy of the collection is palpable.
He named the series “Plateros,” the third of four works in the Mexico City series – following “The First Mexicans” and “Diego.” The Chiapas-born designer was inspired by the iconic Calle Madros, a “historic street that combines all the culture of Mexico: the guerrillas, the revolution, the good times, the bad times, the happy years , not-so-happy years,” Cancino explained backstage. . “This is a street that describes Mexico City in depth.”
This is a minimalist series. The sum of references, layers and textures gives life to dynamic pieces, such as a strappy skirt that dances with every step and is, as the designer describes it, “a rhetorical study in pattern making.”
The Cancino aesthetic is typified by clean finishes and a simplification of traditional Mexican clothing. Of course, his signature style elements are also present, especially the vest, which at first glance seems to be a homage to Japanese design, but is actually a reference to traditional Japanese clothing. “The fusion of traditional patterns; huipil, quexquémitl and all of that is part of the hegemonic minimalism that’s emerging around the world,” he explains. “It’s very similar to Japanese, but to me it comes from Mexican. What happens is that there is a point in the original language where they [all] coincide.
One word Cancino often mentions is “passion.” In a year widely considered difficult by many in the industry, his passion for the craft of making clothes remains strong. The very act of launching a new collection is a victory. If there’s one force that continues to drive Latin American brands today, it’s this one.
