In this most political of years, national affairs are a topic that has gone largely untouched in fashion this season. But that was not the case at Lamine Badian Kouyaté’s Xuly.Bët show, which, like last time, took place in a passage in the Sentier, once home to the Parisian textile industry. The collection is similar to previous collections with a focus on printed denim. Spring’s range, however, is significantly larger, covering all the designer’s bases: reimagined sweatshirts, wax-printed separates, parkas and, of course, form-fitting stretch pieces with red seams.
When model Kadra Omar showed up with a boom box, viewers were hinted that things were the same as they started, but different. “She walked for me in the ’90s, but she still has the magic to lead and bring joy to an entire team,” the designer wrote in a post-show exchange. “I wanted to bring her back because of her bringing together spirit and bringing different generations together, which is what casting is about.” Xuly.Bët is a family affair; this season, the designer’s niece Amissa is behind the scenes Work. During one walkthrough, she shared a story about her mother, who went to school with Kouyate and remembered his “completely different style from the others; he would cut out school bags and put them in a way that people had never seen before. aside.
Regarding the speakers, the editor believes they are a reference to the designer’s iconic White show in 1993, when he had models walking in the Tuileries Palace outside the Chanel show, each with their own sound system. But no. “The symbolism of the speakers is to bring back a feeling of sharing, gathering and having fun together,” explains Kouyate. “Nowadays, everyone has their own headphones, which can be a major source of isolation and loneliness for a new generation. Let’s have fun and overcome the pain.
Kouyaté has never been a designer who lives in a bubble. Instead, he was inspired by and engaged with what was happening on the streets and in the wider world. The bright white and blue garments in the collection were made with protest banners from UNSA, a union that supports public education. No matter what the season, the brand’s overarching message is “looks good and works well.”
