Rahul Mishra’s AFEW spring collection draws inspiration from rural Indian girls moving to the big city to pursue their dreams. While embracing Western culture and mastering the language of Instagram and social media, they remain deeply connected to their heritage. They created a modern look with traditional Indian pieces and accessories, such as a long scarf called a dupatta, a third eye-point painted on the forehead, and a stack of delicate gold bangles adorning the wrists.
“It’s a global approach,” Mishra explains during a showroom appointment in Paris. He imagined a girl who was “a little vulnerable, a little brave, curious about the modern world” but still had a deep connection to and appreciation for her cultural roots. Mishra points out that local traditions and customs are increasingly being absorbed and diluted by globalized culture, which “makes everything appear homogeneous” – an undisputed point. His “easy to wear” collection blends international glamor with Indian style.
The traditional kurta (an elongated T-shaped outer garment often worn with fitted trousers) forms the basis of a crisp white cotton shirt dress with tonal embroidery at the hem. Pleated skirts worn with leggings take inspiration from the multi-paneled kurtas of Jaipur, reinterpreted in bold floral prints. Floral patterns and fleur-de-lis were also embroidered on sequins on pretty sundresses and masculine shirts, using a patchwork technique similar to that used by rural Indian women to personalize their kurtas. “There is power in protecting your culture; wealth is more than just money,” Mishra said. “It’s about culture, upbringing and family values.”
