The sea is becoming one of the main currents of spring. In the hands of Zuhair Murad, it transformed women into Venus’s maids, mounted on a half-shell.
These demi-goddesses are half human, half anemone, clad in flowing jersey, khadi or English eyelet. Elements such as starfish embroidery, seashells and baroque pearl inlays pop from deep, as in a simple black top paired with flowing trousers. A strand of white handkerchief straps feature eyelets, while a range of poplin bras and loose dresses come in cute Italian-inspired prints. A black robe with rococo embroidery looks like a guardian; elsewhere, precious-looking beading, sequin embellishments reminiscent of sailors’ rope and hammered satin are worked to resemble the movement and luster of water . Gray halterneck dress, tailored paneled shift dress, white two-piece set with crop top and maxi skirt embellished with geometric sequins. Lace rope embroidery with stylized initials captures the elegant flow of algae. Some of the more concise ideas here may prove to be timeless.
The designer has also been leaning towards sharp tailoring lately, and here he showed admirable restraint by keeping embellishments in negative space, as on a blush suit or a black collection. But if his ladies were pursuing a play on sheerness, he would also cover them in black or white lace, sometimes with corset details or (more modestly) with long strips strategically inserted into In brisk silk satin.
The ladies of Murad always look glamorous, especially at night, on the red carpet, at weddings and anywhere else they may be. Here, he debuted draped, pleated and lamé goddess dresses in universally flattering shades ranging from champagne to caviar, paired with sunrise/sunset tones like apricot, coral, auburn, silver and bronze.
